![]() After this, fill all of the pocket holes with wood putty. Some sides of the X may need to be sanded a bit to allow it to slide in and out easily to aid in finishing. Make your outer cuts to equal a 3/4″ thickness on the notch with the miter saw and then make a few more relief cuts inside. ![]() The remaining steps however, are the same. I realized this after taking this pictures, which is why it isn’t shown here. The X space in this cabinet is not square, so the notches will have to be cut with the saw blade tilted at 15 degrees to allow for the X to fit inside the space. Mark each side of the notch with pencil and mark halfway across the plywood for your stopping point with the miter saw. Glue and clamp the top down and attach with 1 1/4″ brad nails.įor the X, you’re going to make a 3/4″ notch in the center of the plywood pieces. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes into the middle shelf and attach flush with the 1×2 frame using 1 1/4″ pocket screws. ![]() The bottom shelf space is 13″ high, so measure and mark where the middle shelf will go and make sure it is square. Attach the middle shelf frame flush with the front legs of the cabinet with 1 1/4″ pocket screws. Clamp the shelf flush with the tops of the bottom rails and attach with 3/4″ pocket screws.ĭrill 3/4″ pocket holes into the 1×2 pieces for the front frame of the cabinet. For the top rails (front and back), drill counter sunk pilot holes (3 in each one) to attach the cabinet top.Ĭut the bottom shelf and drill 3/4″ pocket holes into all four sides. Attach the bottom rails 3″ up from the bottoms of the legs. Attach with 1 1/4″ pocket screws.ĭrill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into the front and back rails and attach to the cabinet sides with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket screws. I ripped down the pieces using my handy Kreg Rip-Cut.ĭrill 3/4″ pocket holes into the inside of each panel.įit the side panels flush with the inside edge of the frame and clamp. This project takes a little over half a sheet of plywood. Attach to the front and back legs using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket screws. Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into the 12″ side rails. ![]() 1 – project panel cut at 16″ x 21 1/2″ (top)īegin by building the side frames of the cabinet.1/2″ plywood cut 14″ x 16″ (drawer bottom).2 – 1×2 17″ (shelf trim and under drawer).1 – 3×4″ plywood piece cut 12″ x 17″ (bottom shelf).2 – 3×4″ plywood pieces cut 12″ x 29 3/8″ (side panels).Kreg SML-C125-100 1-1/4-Inch 8-Coarse Washer-Head Pocket Screws, 100-Count.Kreg SML-C250-50 2-1/2-Inch #8 Coarse Washer-Head Pocket Screws, 50 Count.impact driver (optional but it does make life easier).Kreg KSC-1485-24 Automaxx Heavy Duty Sliding Bar Clamp, 24-Inch.wood stain (I used Minwax in Special Walnut).1/8″x2’x4′ tempered hardboard (for backing).1 sheet of 3/4″ veneer plywood (birch or maple is a good choice).For those of you who did not win, here is the tutorial I promised for how to build your very own wine cabinet. The winner of my custom wine cabinet has been randomly chosen and she’s already claimed her prize. Last week 5 other bloggers and I teamed up with Kreg Tool Company and gave away our own custom built creations.
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